6/13: day 4

Day 4: ride to Limin Gerakas

Today was our first day of real riding.

We started off with breakfast and this hotel had a much smaller but still delicious breakfast buffet.

We had been hearing on multiple occasions that the archaeologists have a strong voice in the Grecian government and that development has to demonstrate that there is nothing of historical value being lost. I was particularly interested in seeing how the hotel was able to preserve the cistern while building a swimming pool. 

The swimming pool turned out to be less interesting than the view. Since the hotel is built on a rock and the swimming pool was at the top of the property, this is the view from the pool.

Our ride today was an out-and back.

As Mike says, this felt like a real European bike ride. We paralleled the coast on one side and low scrubbing vegetation on the other side (This made it particularly difficult to find a discreet place to pee.) Beyond the scrubby vegetation were spectacular cliffs like this one. I stopped for this one because it had these holes that looks like they might have been a cool place to hang out.

Our lunch stop was in this tiny fishing village, population 20! The guy who owned the restaurant where we ate lunch showed us how they caught shrimp.

That tiny thing in his hand is a shrimp. This is the net they used to catch them.

He threw this crab back. I guess they don't eat them.

They did a cooking demonstration of how to prepare these shrimp. That's our guide translating. They are basically put the shrimp in a batter with some herbs and deep-fried. While they don't have to be shelled, they do have a nose that is unpleasant in your mouth. So each tiny little shrimp is decapitated by hand. Way too much work!

Most of us also jumped in the water. Avert your eyes.

The ride back was fast. Well, maybe not "fast", but faster than the morning. I think we actually made it back before the ebikers arrived, although we left before they did. 

We stopped in town for the mandatory post-ride beer. 

This a view of the causeway that connects the island to the mainland.

Here's an action photo of the same.

Later we walked up to the lower town on the rock which is still inhabited by 15 year-round residents. 

Here’s the main commercial drag.

Off the main “street” were side streets that looked like this.

While some buildings were occupied, many were not. And the upper town at the top of the rock was just ruins.

It is difficult to live here because renovations, such as attempts to modernize, are restricted. For example, no aluminum window frames.

At an open courtyard, we were met by a dynamic young man who ran a shop on the main drag but gave us a wine-tasting and small hors d’oeuvres. We were promised a “surprise” and it turned out to be a Kalamata olive that had gone through many steps including being soaked in lye to become a “dessert" olive. I liked it.

We had dinner in the village and this is what we had to look at (not the kid's head).

Here are my stats from the morning: https://www.strava.com/activities/9257344732

Here are my stats from the afternoon: https://www.strava.com/activities/9257344924